There are customs which are common all over France and special ones in Provence.
Please scroll down or navigate through the tree on the right side for reading about them.
You will find information on Provence Cuisine and Costume in http://www.rivieraapt-cuisine-costume.blogspot.com/
If you want to know when these events occur, you will find a list of them in www.rivieraapt-events.blogspot.com
If you are eager to participate to any of these events, the best way is to stay in an accommodation of mine http://www.rivieraapt-accommodations.blogspot.com/
I provide my guests with a detailed program.
jeudi 26 août 2010
mercredi 25 août 2010
Christmas, New Year and Epiphany
Cristmas traditions
For French people, Christmas is like Thanksgiving for the Americans, it is the time when family gathers. In the North and North East of France, children are given gifts at St Nicolas on Dec 7th but in the South, Pere Noel (Santa Claus) brings them on the night of Dec 24th. He comes from Lapland on a slide driven by elks and goes down the chimney. Santa Claus is dressed differently than in the States, instead of red trousers and a jacket, he wears a long red gown bordered with white fur. He carries the toys in a straw basket in his back (like people who collect grapes) and leave them in shoes near the fire place or under the fir tree (not in socks as in the US). Of course, on Dec 24th, all the kids polish their shoes in order they are so shiny that they attract more toys!
If the kids have not been nice all over the year, Père Fouettard comes instead of Pere Noel and gives them a spanking instead of toys.
The fir tree is also decorated very differently than in the States. The fir tree was created in Alsace in North-East of France. At that time it was suspended to the ceiling and decorated with apples. When Alsace became German, the fir tree was adopted all over Germany and then to France when Hélène de Mecklembourg brought one to Paris after marrying the Dauphin, e.g. the French heir to the throne.
Normally you must prepare the Xmas tree only on Dec 23rd and it must last until Epiphany on January 7th, the anniversary of the visit of the three wise men to Jesus. However people set it up as early as end of November. As it is more & more often in plastic, it can last for until end of the year.
In general for the diner, France used to have turkey but now they prefer to have more refined food and generally they buy the most expensive food they cannot afford the rest of the year. Typically they eat oysters (raw), smoked salmon, foie gras (goose liver), lobster, boudin blanc (milk and bread, pork and veal sausage) . . . and for dessert the traditional Buche de Noël, log cake.
It is a ‘genoise’ cake (sponge cake), which is rolled and shaped as a log. It is stuffed inside with a butter based cream and it is covered by a mix of chocolate & chestnut puree to make it look like a log.
Nowadays Buche de Noël comes in all types such as iced cake but they still have the look of a log.
The log is a very ancient symbol associated with Christmas time.
Christmas dates from before Christianity. It was celebrating winter solstice. At that time people were animist and believed that some trees have special powers and can transmit their strength to humans. They will take a log from a living fruit tree. Part of the log was burnt and burning slowly for a long time was a good sign for harvest.
Then some ashes will be kept in the house to protect it from lightening; the other part was used to make the wedge for the plough as a good luck talisman for the coming harvest.
To avoid turmoil, clergymen were clever to turn this celebration into a Christian rite.
Unlike in the rest of France where it appeared for commercial reasons, the Xmas markets are a true tradition in Alsace (North East) and in Provence, the opportunity for craftsmen and peasants to sell home made craft or cooking preparation (anchoiade with anchovies, tappenade with olives, aioli with garlic, fruit or flower jams, glazed chestnuts, crystallized fruits, dry meat, preserves, …).
We have our own Xmas customs in Provence.
We celebrate "Calendale" i.e. advent lighting up a large white candle each 3 Sundays before Christmas. We do not have a special calendar nor the wreath as in the Anglo-Saxon countries though.
The first Calendale rite is planting a few lentils or wheat seeds in wet cotton on Ste Barbe day (Dec 4th). Their growth is a symbol for fertility of the earth and brings prosperity to the family (Quand lou blad vèn bèn, tout vèn bèn!). When Provence people set up the ‘creche’, a miniature nativity scene, they decorate it with the germinated grains next to Jesus' crib to have a good harvest in the coming year.
St Francis of Assisi is said to have been the first to make a Creche at Christmas in 1223. The tradition of having a Creche at Christmas spread up in Italy then in Provence and much later all over France.
The other Provence tradition is to decorate the ‘creche’ with ‘santons’ (little saints), clay figures dressed in traditional Provence clothes holding tools of their jobs. Their making (size and attire) is codified; each character must be made according to strict rules. There are many dedicated fairs and Christmas markets where you can find little cheap ones, which are just painted, or elaborated ones, bigger and with real clothes making wonderful gifts as they are always authentic and gaily coloured.
The patterns for the moulds have been passed from generation to generation since the seventeenth century.
In addition to the usual Holy Family, angel and shepherds (pastres), in Provence we add the important people of the village in the "creche", sculpting the faces according to persons living in the village .
You have the mandatory ones such as shepherds carrying a baby lamb on their shoulders, "ravi" e.g. the idiot of the village raising his hands to the sky, "garde champêtre" a kind of policeman watching poachers and making public announcements with his drum or clarion, “tambourinaire”, the traditional musician with his galoubet and tambourin, "miller" who grounds the corn or olives, "fisherman" with his net, “peasant” with baskets full of fruits and veggies, "hunter" bringing a hare, "baker" with a basket full of breads, , the grinder, the sweep, the farm servant Bartoumieù… but you have also the farmer's wife, the priest, female "fish seller", "garlic seller", "Margarida" with her umbrella, "pig man", female "snails seller", female "bundles of sticks seller", "gypsy“ (Lou Boumian), “blind beggar”, "pitcher seller", “Arlesienne” in her beautiful attire, Pistachiet, Jiget , Roustido…
The ‘creche’ reminds us that Christmas is the celebration of Jesus’s birth before being the most popular family fest. The santons make each of the villagers being part of this miracle. It is undone on Chandeleur day (see further down).
During Advent, we have also live nativity scenes were human and real animals are playing the roles of the different characters of the nativity scene.
Pastorales re-enact the scenes of the birth of the Christ mixed with sketches from Provence legends full of typical Provence characters such as le Ravi, an half-witted man, Mireille and Vincent, two lovers who cannot get married because the young man is not rich enough... It is mainly dances and songs with a little of text in Provence language (not a dialect but a language recognised by the European Parliament) but it is expressive enough to be understandable. The whole show is very colourful.
In Provence people share traditionally the Gros Souper before they go to the mass service at midnight (in the old time people will wait after the midnight service to have the Gros Souper because you had to have an empty stomach to receive the communion and there is a famous tale about that which was written by Alphonse Daudet in ‘letters from my mill’, one of the most famous Provencal books).
The table is covered with three white table clothes laid one on top of the other, symbolizing the Holy Trinity (Catholics believe that God is a 3 part entity: God, his son Jesus & the Holy Spirit), the three Advent candles in a three-branch candlestick , symbolizing past, present and future (one candle for ancestors, one candle for relatives and friends, one candle for children to be born) and three dishes with Ste Barbe wheat, hoping that it had grown very green and straight as it symbolizes future harvests. An additional place is laid for the poor who may knock on the door and whom we cannot chase as Jesus’s parents were sent away.
Before the diner, there is the traditional « cacho-fio », the lighting of the fire.
In accordance with the pagan symbolism of the log, the eldest (Papet) and the youngest (Pichot) tour the room 3 times with a log from an olive or cherry tree; then they put it in the fireplace, the elder pours a glass of red wine 3 times over it to extinguish the fire of the past year and re-sets the fire up saying
ALEGRE! ALEGRE! DIEU NOUS ALEGRE! EME CALENDO! TOU BEN VEN! DIEU NOUS FAGUE LA GRACI DE VEIRE l’AN QUE VEN! E SE NOUN SIAN PAS MAI, QUE NOUN FUGUEN PAS MENS!
(Gloria! Gloria! Xmas is now! That’s great! Let’s wish that God let us see next year; should we not be more, let’s not be less)
The audience shouts « Cacho-fio! Bouto fio! » as an answer.
The log must slowly get consumed until Epiphany (JanUary 6th), thus it must be big & young.
The diner must be prepared with only local simple produces and be meagre i.e. meat free. It includes 7 courses (as many as Marie’s labour pains) with local and in-season vegetables often accommodated as Tian and fish. You can find some of them only in Provence such as ‘cardons’, and kinds of fish which are from the Mediterranea and must always include cod accommodated in different ways such as ‘brandade’ (salted cod pounded with smashed potatoes, garlic, olive oil and cream) and Raïto (salted cod in Raïto Sauce).
After Gros Souper, a long procession with people in traditional attire, tambourinaires & shepherds with their sheep (Pastrage) go to the church and gather before the mass service to sing traditional songs, this is still very alive in little villages of the French Riviera beyond country (arriere pays).
On Dec 25th, there is the fat meal, i.e. with meat. We have the traditional French Christmas meal with Buche de Noel. In Provence, hunting is very popular and we often have assorted game for the fat meal with fine Provencal wines.
Finally, on the evening of the 25th,Provence tradition dictates a simple garlic and herb soup, "l'aigo boulido," as a respite from seasonal food excesses.
New Year Eve
As much as Xmas is a family feast, New Year Eve is celebrated with friends.
Again we have a big meal and we spend the night eating, dancing and singing.
At midnight we count the seconds and then kiss each other.
On January 1st, courageous people have a dip in Mediterranean.
Traditionally January 1st is Reconciliation Day; if you have done something bad to somebody you should visit him or her and apologize. The New Year must start without outstanding dispute. The nowadays tradition is to write or call each of your friends or send SMS for season greetings.
We do send New Year cards rather than Christmas ones.
For French people, Christmas is like Thanksgiving for the Americans, it is the time when family gathers. In the North and North East of France, children are given gifts at St Nicolas on Dec 7th but in the South, Pere Noel (Santa Claus) brings them on the night of Dec 24th. He comes from Lapland on a slide driven by elks and goes down the chimney. Santa Claus is dressed differently than in the States, instead of red trousers and a jacket, he wears a long red gown bordered with white fur. He carries the toys in a straw basket in his back (like people who collect grapes) and leave them in shoes near the fire place or under the fir tree (not in socks as in the US). Of course, on Dec 24th, all the kids polish their shoes in order they are so shiny that they attract more toys!
If the kids have not been nice all over the year, Père Fouettard comes instead of Pere Noel and gives them a spanking instead of toys.
The fir tree is also decorated very differently than in the States. The fir tree was created in Alsace in North-East of France. At that time it was suspended to the ceiling and decorated with apples. When Alsace became German, the fir tree was adopted all over Germany and then to France when Hélène de Mecklembourg brought one to Paris after marrying the Dauphin, e.g. the French heir to the throne.
Normally you must prepare the Xmas tree only on Dec 23rd and it must last until Epiphany on January 7th, the anniversary of the visit of the three wise men to Jesus. However people set it up as early as end of November. As it is more & more often in plastic, it can last for until end of the year.
In general for the diner, France used to have turkey but now they prefer to have more refined food and generally they buy the most expensive food they cannot afford the rest of the year. Typically they eat oysters (raw), smoked salmon, foie gras (goose liver), lobster, boudin blanc (milk and bread, pork and veal sausage) . . . and for dessert the traditional Buche de Noël, log cake.
It is a ‘genoise’ cake (sponge cake), which is rolled and shaped as a log. It is stuffed inside with a butter based cream and it is covered by a mix of chocolate & chestnut puree to make it look like a log.
Nowadays Buche de Noël comes in all types such as iced cake but they still have the look of a log.
The log is a very ancient symbol associated with Christmas time.
Christmas dates from before Christianity. It was celebrating winter solstice. At that time people were animist and believed that some trees have special powers and can transmit their strength to humans. They will take a log from a living fruit tree. Part of the log was burnt and burning slowly for a long time was a good sign for harvest.
Then some ashes will be kept in the house to protect it from lightening; the other part was used to make the wedge for the plough as a good luck talisman for the coming harvest.
To avoid turmoil, clergymen were clever to turn this celebration into a Christian rite.
Unlike in the rest of France where it appeared for commercial reasons, the Xmas markets are a true tradition in Alsace (North East) and in Provence, the opportunity for craftsmen and peasants to sell home made craft or cooking preparation (anchoiade with anchovies, tappenade with olives, aioli with garlic, fruit or flower jams, glazed chestnuts, crystallized fruits, dry meat, preserves, …).
We have our own Xmas customs in Provence.
We celebrate "Calendale" i.e. advent lighting up a large white candle each 3 Sundays before Christmas. We do not have a special calendar nor the wreath as in the Anglo-Saxon countries though.
The first Calendale rite is planting a few lentils or wheat seeds in wet cotton on Ste Barbe day (Dec 4th). Their growth is a symbol for fertility of the earth and brings prosperity to the family (Quand lou blad vèn bèn, tout vèn bèn!). When Provence people set up the ‘creche’, a miniature nativity scene, they decorate it with the germinated grains next to Jesus' crib to have a good harvest in the coming year.
St Francis of Assisi is said to have been the first to make a Creche at Christmas in 1223. The tradition of having a Creche at Christmas spread up in Italy then in Provence and much later all over France.
The other Provence tradition is to decorate the ‘creche’ with ‘santons’ (little saints), clay figures dressed in traditional Provence clothes holding tools of their jobs. Their making (size and attire) is codified; each character must be made according to strict rules. There are many dedicated fairs and Christmas markets where you can find little cheap ones, which are just painted, or elaborated ones, bigger and with real clothes making wonderful gifts as they are always authentic and gaily coloured.
The patterns for the moulds have been passed from generation to generation since the seventeenth century.
In addition to the usual Holy Family, angel and shepherds (pastres), in Provence we add the important people of the village in the "creche", sculpting the faces according to persons living in the village .
You have the mandatory ones such as shepherds carrying a baby lamb on their shoulders, "ravi" e.g. the idiot of the village raising his hands to the sky, "garde champêtre" a kind of policeman watching poachers and making public announcements with his drum or clarion, “tambourinaire”, the traditional musician with his galoubet and tambourin, "miller" who grounds the corn or olives, "fisherman" with his net, “peasant” with baskets full of fruits and veggies, "hunter" bringing a hare, "baker" with a basket full of breads, , the grinder, the sweep, the farm servant Bartoumieù… but you have also the farmer's wife, the priest, female "fish seller", "garlic seller", "Margarida" with her umbrella, "pig man", female "snails seller", female "bundles of sticks seller", "gypsy“ (Lou Boumian), “blind beggar”, "pitcher seller", “Arlesienne” in her beautiful attire, Pistachiet, Jiget , Roustido…
The ‘creche’ reminds us that Christmas is the celebration of Jesus’s birth before being the most popular family fest. The santons make each of the villagers being part of this miracle. It is undone on Chandeleur day (see further down).
During Advent, we have also live nativity scenes were human and real animals are playing the roles of the different characters of the nativity scene.
Pastorales re-enact the scenes of the birth of the Christ mixed with sketches from Provence legends full of typical Provence characters such as le Ravi, an half-witted man, Mireille and Vincent, two lovers who cannot get married because the young man is not rich enough... It is mainly dances and songs with a little of text in Provence language (not a dialect but a language recognised by the European Parliament) but it is expressive enough to be understandable. The whole show is very colourful.
In Provence people share traditionally the Gros Souper before they go to the mass service at midnight (in the old time people will wait after the midnight service to have the Gros Souper because you had to have an empty stomach to receive the communion and there is a famous tale about that which was written by Alphonse Daudet in ‘letters from my mill’, one of the most famous Provencal books).
The table is covered with three white table clothes laid one on top of the other, symbolizing the Holy Trinity (Catholics believe that God is a 3 part entity: God, his son Jesus & the Holy Spirit), the three Advent candles in a three-branch candlestick , symbolizing past, present and future (one candle for ancestors, one candle for relatives and friends, one candle for children to be born) and three dishes with Ste Barbe wheat, hoping that it had grown very green and straight as it symbolizes future harvests. An additional place is laid for the poor who may knock on the door and whom we cannot chase as Jesus’s parents were sent away.
Before the diner, there is the traditional « cacho-fio », the lighting of the fire.
In accordance with the pagan symbolism of the log, the eldest (Papet) and the youngest (Pichot) tour the room 3 times with a log from an olive or cherry tree; then they put it in the fireplace, the elder pours a glass of red wine 3 times over it to extinguish the fire of the past year and re-sets the fire up saying
ALEGRE! ALEGRE! DIEU NOUS ALEGRE! EME CALENDO! TOU BEN VEN! DIEU NOUS FAGUE LA GRACI DE VEIRE l’AN QUE VEN! E SE NOUN SIAN PAS MAI, QUE NOUN FUGUEN PAS MENS!
(Gloria! Gloria! Xmas is now! That’s great! Let’s wish that God let us see next year; should we not be more, let’s not be less)
The audience shouts « Cacho-fio! Bouto fio! » as an answer.
The log must slowly get consumed until Epiphany (JanUary 6th), thus it must be big & young.
The diner must be prepared with only local simple produces and be meagre i.e. meat free. It includes 7 courses (as many as Marie’s labour pains) with local and in-season vegetables often accommodated as Tian and fish. You can find some of them only in Provence such as ‘cardons’, and kinds of fish which are from the Mediterranea and must always include cod accommodated in different ways such as ‘brandade’ (salted cod pounded with smashed potatoes, garlic, olive oil and cream) and Raïto (salted cod in Raïto Sauce).
After Gros Souper, a long procession with people in traditional attire, tambourinaires & shepherds with their sheep (Pastrage) go to the church and gather before the mass service to sing traditional songs, this is still very alive in little villages of the French Riviera beyond country (arriere pays).
You should have at least:
- the 4 ‘beggars’ representing the four religious orders begging for their food:
- Almonds for the Carmelites
- Dried figs for the Franciscans
- Raisins for the Dominicans
- Walnuts/hazlenuts for the Augustins
- Pompe à huile: all our cuisine is based on olive oil, which is produced in water mills from November until March. The miller puts flour in the bottom of the press to absorb the remaining oil. Women bake this soaked flour added with orange blossom water to get the Pompe a Huile cake. The shape of the cake is a wheel symbolizing the cosmic forces.
- Fougasse (a cake with anis flavor),
- Auribeto or Oreillettes (thin fried cakes),
- Navettes (dry cakes with almonds),
- Black and white (as a symbol of good and bad days) Nougat (candy made of honey, almonds …), symbolizing Black and White Penitents
- Quince, nuts, rhubarb… jam,
- Papillottes (chocolates sweets wrapped in silver paper),
- Disguised fruits such as prunes with almond pasta,
- Fresh local fruit: apples, pears, oranges, winter melons, grapes, kakis, grenades,…
- Dates symbolizing the country where the Christ is born; in Provence they are of gold colour, so they are called Pistoles like the ancient Spanish gold coins
- Plus local specialities such as dragées (almonds wrapped in sugar), glazed chestnuts, candied fruits or “calissons” (almond paste sweets) from Aix
During 3 days, the thirteen desserts are set on a clean table clothe at another table ready for neighbours, beggars or the souls of the ancestors to come and taste.
On Dec 25th, there is the fat meal, i.e. with meat. We have the traditional French Christmas meal with Buche de Noel. In Provence, hunting is very popular and we often have assorted game for the fat meal with fine Provencal wines.
Finally, on the evening of the 25th,Provence tradition dictates a simple garlic and herb soup, "l'aigo boulido," as a respite from seasonal food excesses.
New Year Eve
As much as Xmas is a family feast, New Year Eve is celebrated with friends.
Again we have a big meal and we spend the night eating, dancing and singing.
At midnight we count the seconds and then kiss each other.
On January 1st, courageous people have a dip in Mediterranean.
Traditionally January 1st is Reconciliation Day; if you have done something bad to somebody you should visit him or her and apologize. The New Year must start without outstanding dispute. The nowadays tradition is to write or call each of your friends or send SMS for season greetings.
We do send New Year cards rather than Christmas ones.
January and February festivals
Chandeleur , Fat Tuesday & Bouffets
On Chandeleur (Candlemas) on February 2nd, , and on Shrovetide (Fat Tuesday), the day before the Lent period starts (40 days of fasting ending with Good Friday), French eat ‘crepes’ (very thin & wide pancakes). There are contests for throwing up the crepes into the air and catch it back in the frying pan. Crepe parties are another opportunity to have fun with relatives and/or friends. In Provence we rather have Ganses (fried cakes in the shape of knots) rather than crepes.
End of February, on ashes day at night, the «Boufetaires», young men, dressed with long white gowns, with bells at their ankles, and ashes on their fronts dance on one foot or the other, following each other, holding bellows, making figures and singing bawdy songs in Provencal.
Sian uno bando de bravo juventuro
Qu’aven un fuec que nous brulo
Se sian imagina, per se lou fa passa
De prendre de boufet, au cuou de se boufa
They blow in the ass of the guy ahead of them with their bellows. From time to time they fill in their bellows with flour and chase girls to blow under their skirt or at the face of people around.
They ring at doors and people must give them cookies. Then they walk proudly to another part of the city and start again their crazy dance.
The dances are symbolic of nature mood swings. The dance on one foot is to show that the peasants are beating the earth in order it gives them good products. The bellows symbolize the force of the nature which is still asleep.
Mimosa and Carnival festivals
January/February is the blossom season for mimosa and the Tanneron mountain (west of Grasse) turns entirely yellow. This is the main agricultural revenue for this area. Mandelieu, Valbonne and Pegomas hold a mimosa festival. Floats are decorated with this gorgeous and sweet-smelling flower. At the end of the parade, all the flowers are given away, so the people go home with their arms full of flowers, mainly mimosa of course but also roses, carnations, iris … and they decorate their home with these wonderfully smelling flowers.
Of course this goes along traditional folk dances and music.
February/March is the season for the famous Carnival in Nice and the lemon festival in Menton.
During the Carnival, there are different types of floats parades, flower battles and ‘charivari’ where everybody does crazy things.
During the lemon festival in Menton, there are floats decorated with lemons and oranges but also great statues made of these citrus fruits in beautiful parks in Menton.
On Chandeleur (Candlemas) on February 2nd, , and on Shrovetide (Fat Tuesday), the day before the Lent period starts (40 days of fasting ending with Good Friday), French eat ‘crepes’ (very thin & wide pancakes). There are contests for throwing up the crepes into the air and catch it back in the frying pan. Crepe parties are another opportunity to have fun with relatives and/or friends. In Provence we rather have Ganses (fried cakes in the shape of knots) rather than crepes.
End of February, on ashes day at night, the «Boufetaires», young men, dressed with long white gowns, with bells at their ankles, and ashes on their fronts dance on one foot or the other, following each other, holding bellows, making figures and singing bawdy songs in Provencal.
Sian uno bando de bravo juventuro
Qu’aven un fuec que nous brulo
Se sian imagina, per se lou fa passa
De prendre de boufet, au cuou de se boufa
They blow in the ass of the guy ahead of them with their bellows. From time to time they fill in their bellows with flour and chase girls to blow under their skirt or at the face of people around.
They ring at doors and people must give them cookies. Then they walk proudly to another part of the city and start again their crazy dance.
The dances are symbolic of nature mood swings. The dance on one foot is to show that the peasants are beating the earth in order it gives them good products. The bellows symbolize the force of the nature which is still asleep.
Mimosa and Carnival festivals
January/February is the blossom season for mimosa and the Tanneron mountain (west of Grasse) turns entirely yellow. This is the main agricultural revenue for this area. Mandelieu, Valbonne and Pegomas hold a mimosa festival. Floats are decorated with this gorgeous and sweet-smelling flower. At the end of the parade, all the flowers are given away, so the people go home with their arms full of flowers, mainly mimosa of course but also roses, carnations, iris … and they decorate their home with these wonderfully smelling flowers.
Of course this goes along traditional folk dances and music.
February/March is the season for the famous Carnival in Nice and the lemon festival in Menton.
During the Carnival, there are different types of floats parades, flower battles and ‘charivari’ where everybody does crazy things.
During the lemon festival in Menton, there are floats decorated with lemons and oranges but also great statues made of these citrus fruits in beautiful parks in Menton.
Spring traditions
April 1st
In the old time, the civil year was starting on April 1st. Charles IX decided in 1561 to change it for January 1st. Some people did not accept the change and continued to celebrate April 1st. In order to make them look like fools, friends started to hang a paper fish in their back without them realizing it. Why fish? Some say because the date is close to Lent, others because it was forbidden to fish at that time since it is fish fry period.
Kids keep the traditions and people announced wrong news to each other. When your contact realizes it is a lie, you must shout “Poisson d’Avril” (April fish)! The media are perpetuating the tradition. One of the most astonishing news heard on TV was that Paris mayor had decided to move Eiffel Tower on the other bank. The funny thing is that there are always people not realizing that it is April 1st & a joke.
Easter
In France only Monday is a bank holiday, we work on Friday unlike other Europeans.
There are a lot of traditions around Easter, such as Feria in Nimes, Arles, … with bull fights.
Easter is the biggest fest in Vence.
On Saturday afternoon, there is folk festival.
During the night, kids decorate the street floors of the old city with designs made of flower petals.
This is quite impressive to discover that in the morning.
On Sunday morning the main services is celebrated in Provencal and locals come in traditional attire. After the service, there is a special dance around a log which is performed in front of the cathedral. Then people are invited to a free aperitif where they can taste the traditional dishes such as pissaladiere (onion pie)… and orange or lemon wine.
In the afternoon, there is a flower decorated floats parade in the city.
On Monday there is another typically Provence service at the outskirts of the ramparts for celebrating the fight and victory against Protestants.
Another tradition for kids is to search for eggs in their garden. It used to be boiled eggs decorated by hand by our mothers. Now it is rather chocolate eggs.
The tradition is alive in North east of France where kids believe the eggs are brought in by the Easter Bunny, and in Provence where they think they are dropped by bells coming back from Roma. As you know bells do not ring between the death and the resurrection of the Christ. Our parents used to tell us that the bells were gone to Roma during this period.
May
There is a very vivid tradition on the first day of May. Men are supposed to present girls they love (Mom, wife, girlfriend…) with a bouquet of lilies. The fragile lily is the symbol of Spring’s victory over Winter. The tradition started in 1561 when Charles IX gave a sprig of lily as a lucky charm to each of the people he cared for.
On that day anybody can sell lilies without a license, so you will see plenty of people selling these flowers everywhere. They are supposed to collect it themselves but most of the lilies they sell are produced in Nantes (Brittany).
1st of May is also Labor Day in France and everything is closed.
In Provence, the entire month of May is full of festivities for celebrating the renewal of nature.
Nice has been reviving the tradition of family gathering in the public areas (park of Cimiez) for picnicking and enjoying free concerts each weekend.
Traditionally, engagements were set up in May. It was usual that fathers put a flower wrath on the doors of their house when they had a girl to marry. Weddings were not supposed to be held in May.
Each village used to select the highest tree of the village, cut it and erect a mast on the village main square. It was decorated with a wrath and 3 oranges that boys will try to get and bring to their fiancée.
Flowers festivals
Flowers and citrus were the main agricultural production in South Provence.
It is still the only one despite it has decreased a lot as selling grove land to promoters brings millions without sweat. Our cities still celebrate the gift of the soil which brought them prosperity.
Most famous festivals are the orange festival in Menton, the Violets festival in Tourette/Loup, the Jasmin festival in Grasse whose main industry is still essential oils and perfume factories, the Rose festival in Monaco…
Most local feasts are the opportunity for corsos where floats richly decorated with flowers and citrus parade through the city.
We have also lots of great gardens with exotic flowers as our climate allows their raising. You have a list on http://www.rivieraapt-activities.blogspot.com/
In the old time, the civil year was starting on April 1st. Charles IX decided in 1561 to change it for January 1st. Some people did not accept the change and continued to celebrate April 1st. In order to make them look like fools, friends started to hang a paper fish in their back without them realizing it. Why fish? Some say because the date is close to Lent, others because it was forbidden to fish at that time since it is fish fry period.
Kids keep the traditions and people announced wrong news to each other. When your contact realizes it is a lie, you must shout “Poisson d’Avril” (April fish)! The media are perpetuating the tradition. One of the most astonishing news heard on TV was that Paris mayor had decided to move Eiffel Tower on the other bank. The funny thing is that there are always people not realizing that it is April 1st & a joke.
Easter
In France only Monday is a bank holiday, we work on Friday unlike other Europeans.
There are a lot of traditions around Easter, such as Feria in Nimes, Arles, … with bull fights.
Easter is the biggest fest in Vence.
On Saturday afternoon, there is folk festival.
During the night, kids decorate the street floors of the old city with designs made of flower petals.
This is quite impressive to discover that in the morning.
On Sunday morning the main services is celebrated in Provencal and locals come in traditional attire. After the service, there is a special dance around a log which is performed in front of the cathedral. Then people are invited to a free aperitif where they can taste the traditional dishes such as pissaladiere (onion pie)… and orange or lemon wine.
In the afternoon, there is a flower decorated floats parade in the city.
On Monday there is another typically Provence service at the outskirts of the ramparts for celebrating the fight and victory against Protestants.
Another tradition for kids is to search for eggs in their garden. It used to be boiled eggs decorated by hand by our mothers. Now it is rather chocolate eggs.
The tradition is alive in North east of France where kids believe the eggs are brought in by the Easter Bunny, and in Provence where they think they are dropped by bells coming back from Roma. As you know bells do not ring between the death and the resurrection of the Christ. Our parents used to tell us that the bells were gone to Roma during this period.
May
There is a very vivid tradition on the first day of May. Men are supposed to present girls they love (Mom, wife, girlfriend…) with a bouquet of lilies. The fragile lily is the symbol of Spring’s victory over Winter. The tradition started in 1561 when Charles IX gave a sprig of lily as a lucky charm to each of the people he cared for.
On that day anybody can sell lilies without a license, so you will see plenty of people selling these flowers everywhere. They are supposed to collect it themselves but most of the lilies they sell are produced in Nantes (Brittany).
1st of May is also Labor Day in France and everything is closed.
In Provence, the entire month of May is full of festivities for celebrating the renewal of nature.
Nice has been reviving the tradition of family gathering in the public areas (park of Cimiez) for picnicking and enjoying free concerts each weekend.
Traditionally, engagements were set up in May. It was usual that fathers put a flower wrath on the doors of their house when they had a girl to marry. Weddings were not supposed to be held in May.
Each village used to select the highest tree of the village, cut it and erect a mast on the village main square. It was decorated with a wrath and 3 oranges that boys will try to get and bring to their fiancée.
Flowers festivals
Flowers and citrus were the main agricultural production in South Provence.
It is still the only one despite it has decreased a lot as selling grove land to promoters brings millions without sweat. Our cities still celebrate the gift of the soil which brought them prosperity.
Most famous festivals are the orange festival in Menton, the Violets festival in Tourette/Loup, the Jasmin festival in Grasse whose main industry is still essential oils and perfume factories, the Rose festival in Monaco…
Most local feasts are the opportunity for corsos where floats richly decorated with flowers and citrus parade through the city.
We have also lots of great gardens with exotic flowers as our climate allows their raising. You have a list on http://www.rivieraapt-activities.blogspot.com/
June traditions
June Solstice
We celebrate the summer solstice by huge fires called St John’s fires on Saint John Baptiste’s day (June 24th). Young people build a pyre which is over 10 meters high. At night, they have a round around the fire; when the pyre is lower enough, they start jumping over it. Of course the first ones to jump are the bravest. A young man wishing to get married in the year must be among the bravest to convince the fiancée’s father to give him her hand.
In Vence we celebrate it in the initial ruined village hidden in the close by mountain. It starts by a huge picnic shared by all the locals and folk music and songs.
June 21st is the music festival, you have free concerts of all types (classic, jazz, techno, folk, foreign…) all over France. Any person playing an instrument can stand on a square or the street and play. It started in France and now it is all over Europe.
Fêtes Patronales
Each village and city is protected by a saint who has a special day for celebrating. On this occasion there is a festival organized by the city. Thus any time of the year, you have a chance to participate to such a feast.
It usually starts with a service in Provencal or at least with Provence traditional music. Then there is a thank you ceremony to the monument of death for the soldiers who died to defend our homeland. Then the entire village gathers for a free aperitif usually followed by a big banquet to which anybody can attend for a moderate fee. In the afternoon or evening there is a grand ball.
Folk festivals
All year round, you have folk celebrations.
Some villagers revive traditional crafts for such events. You can see people practicing old jobs (blacksmith, lavandieres, woodcutters, bakers, spinners, lace makers…) and buy authentic artifacts.
You can always see traditional attires, folk dances, and enjoy folk music.
You can also buy home-made traditional food.
Transhumance
As the green pastures are rare in summer on the coast, shepherds take their sheep to the mountain sometimes on foot, most of the times in big trucks. This is another opportunity for celebration. Villages organize festivities when tens of thousands of sheep cross them. There are traditional craft and food events, dances, music…
I recommend the one in Saint Etienne de Tinée, end of June.
We celebrate the summer solstice by huge fires called St John’s fires on Saint John Baptiste’s day (June 24th). Young people build a pyre which is over 10 meters high. At night, they have a round around the fire; when the pyre is lower enough, they start jumping over it. Of course the first ones to jump are the bravest. A young man wishing to get married in the year must be among the bravest to convince the fiancée’s father to give him her hand.
In Vence we celebrate it in the initial ruined village hidden in the close by mountain. It starts by a huge picnic shared by all the locals and folk music and songs.
June 21st is the music festival, you have free concerts of all types (classic, jazz, techno, folk, foreign…) all over France. Any person playing an instrument can stand on a square or the street and play. It started in France and now it is all over Europe.
Fêtes Patronales
Each village and city is protected by a saint who has a special day for celebrating. On this occasion there is a festival organized by the city. Thus any time of the year, you have a chance to participate to such a feast.
It usually starts with a service in Provencal or at least with Provence traditional music. Then there is a thank you ceremony to the monument of death for the soldiers who died to defend our homeland. Then the entire village gathers for a free aperitif usually followed by a big banquet to which anybody can attend for a moderate fee. In the afternoon or evening there is a grand ball.
Folk festivals
All year round, you have folk celebrations.
Some villagers revive traditional crafts for such events. You can see people practicing old jobs (blacksmith, lavandieres, woodcutters, bakers, spinners, lace makers…) and buy authentic artifacts.
You can always see traditional attires, folk dances, and enjoy folk music.
You can also buy home-made traditional food.
Transhumance
As the green pastures are rare in summer on the coast, shepherds take their sheep to the mountain sometimes on foot, most of the times in big trucks. This is another opportunity for celebration. Villages organize festivities when tens of thousands of sheep cross them. There are traditional craft and food events, dances, music…
I recommend the one in Saint Etienne de Tinée, end of June.
Summer traditions
Joutes Provencales
These are fights on sea waters. One protagonist is standing on each traditional boat holding a long pole. While his friends are rowing, he tries to push to the water his adversary.
Medieval festivals
We have lot of medieval villages. They are often perched atop a cliff in order to escape the Sarrazins who were raiding the coast.
Most of the villages have a medieval festival in summer where people dress as in the Middle-Age and re-enact the way they were living at that time. You have knights fighting with their swords, tournaments, archery, medieval songs and dances… and a huge meal with roast as in these old times.
Some of these festivals are particularly interesting such as in Eze.
Bravade
Our traditions date back to Middle-Age. At that time processions were done off the city walls and their security was not guaranteed. Therefore they were accompanied by soldiers.
This tradition is still alive, in some cases we do not know anymore what the initial celebration was but we still have soldiers parading dressed in XVIth, XVIIth or XVIIIth century attire. These parades are called Bravade. The most famous one is held in St Tropez.
You can also see people dressed as soldiers from the Napoleon period for celebrating the escape of the Emperor from Elbe Island where he was exiled (after abdicating in Fontainebleau castle) and its landing in St Juan les Pins. Hundreds of fans of this historical period come from all over the world dressed in the attire of one of the involved country (France, Austria, England, Prusse…). They raise military camps on the beach and live for several days as the soldiers used to do, then they re-enact the triumphal arrival of Napoleon. It was the start of the victorious & blood-free eagle flight to Paris. The adventure ended in Waterloo and Napoleon never came back from Ste Helen Island.
You can read more on the Napoleon road followed by the Emperor after landing on http://www.rivieraapt-villages-napoleonroad.blogspot.com/
Bastille Day
Our National Day is on July 14th for celebrating the taking off by poor people of Bastille fortress where the King used to imprison arbitrarily anybody; this victory symbolizes the newly acquired freedom.
On this occasion each village and town organizes balls and huge fireworks either on July 13th evening or 14th or both.
These are fights on sea waters. One protagonist is standing on each traditional boat holding a long pole. While his friends are rowing, he tries to push to the water his adversary.
Medieval festivals
We have lot of medieval villages. They are often perched atop a cliff in order to escape the Sarrazins who were raiding the coast.
Most of the villages have a medieval festival in summer where people dress as in the Middle-Age and re-enact the way they were living at that time. You have knights fighting with their swords, tournaments, archery, medieval songs and dances… and a huge meal with roast as in these old times.
Some of these festivals are particularly interesting such as in Eze.
Bravade
Our traditions date back to Middle-Age. At that time processions were done off the city walls and their security was not guaranteed. Therefore they were accompanied by soldiers.
This tradition is still alive, in some cases we do not know anymore what the initial celebration was but we still have soldiers parading dressed in XVIth, XVIIth or XVIIIth century attire. These parades are called Bravade. The most famous one is held in St Tropez.
You can also see people dressed as soldiers from the Napoleon period for celebrating the escape of the Emperor from Elbe Island where he was exiled (after abdicating in Fontainebleau castle) and its landing in St Juan les Pins. Hundreds of fans of this historical period come from all over the world dressed in the attire of one of the involved country (France, Austria, England, Prusse…). They raise military camps on the beach and live for several days as the soldiers used to do, then they re-enact the triumphal arrival of Napoleon. It was the start of the victorious & blood-free eagle flight to Paris. The adventure ended in Waterloo and Napoleon never came back from Ste Helen Island.
You can read more on the Napoleon road followed by the Emperor after landing on http://www.rivieraapt-villages-napoleonroad.blogspot.com/
Bastille Day
Our National Day is on July 14th for celebrating the taking off by poor people of Bastille fortress where the King used to imprison arbitrarily anybody; this victory symbolizes the newly acquired freedom.
On this occasion each village and town organizes balls and huge fireworks either on July 13th evening or 14th or both.
Fall traditions
Traversado
Provence used to extend beyond the nowadays borders, e.g. 15 valleys in Italian Alps (Val Maira, Val Grana, Val Varaita...) used to belong to it. They still speak Provence language (not a dialect, a language recognized by the European Community).
Each year at the end of August, Comboscuro, one of these valleys organizes a “roumiage”, the name for Provencal gathering. People come from all over Provence by car or on foot over the Alps. Generally 10 000 persons meet in the tiny village of Sancto Lucio. For 3 days we have dances, music, songs, conferences about Provencal concerns and traditions. This is the perfect event for people looking for a deep insight of our culture.
Inherit age weekends
Twice a year (in June and September), access to museums and monuments is free. It is also possible to visit public buildings which are usually closed to people. Some private persons or companies also open their properties to public when they are of specific interest (former palace, botanical gardens…).
Cypress
Cypress is along olive tree and almond tree the most popular tree in Rhodanian Provence.
Raw of cypresses protect cultures against Mistral, the local strong wind.
A landlord plants one to three cypress trees by his new built home to ask for male children and to greet the passing-by travelers.
By the way, when a child is born, the first persons to visit must bring 5 presents which represent qualities expected from the kid:
Que siègue bon coume dou pan (should he be as good as bread)
Que siègue san coume la sau (should he be as healthy as salt)
Que siègue dre coume uno brouqueto (should he be as straight as a match)
Que siègue plèn coume un ioù (should he be as wealthy as an egg)
Que siègue dous coume lou mèu (should he be as sweet as honey)
Provence used to extend beyond the nowadays borders, e.g. 15 valleys in Italian Alps (Val Maira, Val Grana, Val Varaita...) used to belong to it. They still speak Provence language (not a dialect, a language recognized by the European Community).
Each year at the end of August, Comboscuro, one of these valleys organizes a “roumiage”, the name for Provencal gathering. People come from all over Provence by car or on foot over the Alps. Generally 10 000 persons meet in the tiny village of Sancto Lucio. For 3 days we have dances, music, songs, conferences about Provencal concerns and traditions. This is the perfect event for people looking for a deep insight of our culture.
Inherit age weekends
Twice a year (in June and September), access to museums and monuments is free. It is also possible to visit public buildings which are usually closed to people. Some private persons or companies also open their properties to public when they are of specific interest (former palace, botanical gardens…).
Cypress
Cypress is along olive tree and almond tree the most popular tree in Rhodanian Provence.
Raw of cypresses protect cultures against Mistral, the local strong wind.
A landlord plants one to three cypress trees by his new built home to ask for male children and to greet the passing-by travelers.
By the way, when a child is born, the first persons to visit must bring 5 presents which represent qualities expected from the kid:
Que siègue bon coume dou pan (should he be as good as bread)
Que siègue san coume la sau (should he be as healthy as salt)
Que siègue dre coume uno brouqueto (should he be as straight as a match)
Que siègue plèn coume un ioù (should he be as wealthy as an egg)
Que siègue dous coume lou mèu (should he be as sweet as honey)
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